- Top Palm–First Method
- Top Palm–Second Method
- Bottom Palm–First Method
- Bottom Palm–Second Method
- Bottom Palm–When Cards Are Riffled
- Bottom Palm–When Cards Are Riffled-Second Method
THE art of card palming can be brought to a degree of perfection that borders on the wonderful. It is very simple to place one or several cards in the palm and conceal them by partly closing and turning the palm downward, or inward; but it is entirely another matter to palm them from the deck in such a manner that the most critical observer would not even suspect, let alone detect, the action. The method following were originated by us, and we believe them to be the most rapid and subtle ever devised.
- Top Palm-First Method
HOLD the deck in the left hand so that the first joints of the second and third fingers will be against the middle of one side, the thumb against middle of opposite side, the first joint of little finger against middle of end and first finger curled up against bottom. Bring the right hand over top of deck, the third, second and little fingers close together, first joint of the little finger being against the end corner, the first finger curled up on top and the tip of thumb resting idly at end, above left little finger.
To palm, press the right little finger, exactly at the first joint, firmly against the top cards, pull them up about half an inch at corner, freeing them from the left second and third fingers, keeping the three right fingers (little, second and third) perfectly straight. The cards to be palmed are now held firmly between the right little finger, and the left little finger. (See Fig. 36.) Straighten out right first finger, swing left little finger with the cards to be palmed free of the end of the deck, press the cards into the right palm with the end of the left third finger. (See Fig. 37.)
Draw the deck out about half way from under the right hand, and release the left hand entirely. (See Fig. 38.) Then the right drops the deck on the table to be cut.
After the hands are in the first position the whole process does not occupy half a second.
The deck should be kept in view as much as possible, and the right first finger is curled up on top for that purpose until the instant the palm is performed. The action of drawing the deck into view when the cards are palmed is made a part of the whole movement.
- Top Palm-Second Method
THE positions of the hands are identically the same as the first method, a slight difference is made in the process of palming. Pull up the cards to be palmed as before, then insert the ends of the left second and third fingers. Now straighten out right first finger, press down on end of deck with all four right fingers, bending the cards to be palmed over the left second and third finger ends, and holding them in place by left little finger. Release left little finger and the cards will spring up into the right palm, the left second finger aiding the movement by pressing the cards firmly into the palm and holding them there while the deck is being drawn into view by the left hand. As described in the former method, the left hand should immediately release the deck, which is dropped on the table by the right.
We consider these methods the best for palming the top cards after a shuffle. The positions the hands assume are taken quite naturally in squaring up the cards. The right hand should seize the ends first, and the left thumb and fingers square up the sides by sliding up and down; then by moving the left little finger to the end of deck the proper position is obtained and the palm made in a twinkling.
When the cut is made reach the right hand boldly for the deck, but instead of picking it up lay the palmed cards on top and draw the deck to the edge of the table. Then the thumb naturally goes under the end and the cards can be picked up with ease.
- Bottom Palm-First Method
SEIZE the deck with the right hand on top, between the first joints of the second and third fingers at one end, and the thumb at the other end; the fingers close together and the third finger and thumb close to each corner so as to expose as much of the deck as possible. Bring up the left hand and seize the deck from beneath at the right thumb end, between the first and second fingers, and the palm just under the second joint of the thumb, the thumb lying straight across the top close to the end. If this position is secured correctly the tips of the left thumb and second finger touch the right thumb, as all three are at the same corner of the deck and almost the whole of the deck is exposed. To palm, grip the bottom cards at the side of corner with the tip of the left second finger, squeezing them in against the palm under the left thumb, and pull down over end of right thumb about quarter of an inch. (See Fig. 39.)
This will cause the outer-end corner of the under cards to project a little at the side, under the right third finger. Catch the projecting corner with the right little fingertip, pressing the cards firmly against palm under the left thumb, and draw them in toward right thumb, at the same time straightening out the left fingers until the under cards lie fairly along the left palm. (See Fig. 40.) Slightly close left hand with the palmed cards and turn partly over and inward as the right hand lays the deck on the table for the cut.
The entire action of this palm is extremely rapid, simple, easy and imperceptible. The only difficulty is in establishing the proper position for the left hand. To get this absolutely exact, palm half a dozen cards in the left hand in the most favorable position for holding and concealing. Then with one finger of the right hand press against the little finger corner of the palmed cards, and– using the diagonal corner as a pivot–swing them out and over the first finger until the left second finger tip can be brought against the corner, and the left thumb lie across the end. Now, if the left thumb is raised and the balance of the deck is placed on top, the desired position is obtained.
After a shuffle, the position is taken quite naturally in squaring up by merely pushing the deck out of the left palm until the left thumb lies along the top close to the end.
This palm may be made without the aid of the right little finger. The positions of the hands are taken exactly as before, then the second left finger is dropped sufficiently to allow the little finger to take its place. The little finger then grips the corner and pulls the cards back to the left wrist until they lie along the left fingers as before.
- Bottom Palm-Second Method
SEIZE the deck with the right hand on top, by the middle of the ends between the thumb and first joints of second and third fingers, first finger curled up on top. Bring the left hand up against the bottom, the left second and third finger tips resting idly on the right second and third fingers, the left little finger at first joint against the edge of the bottom cards at the same end, the left first finger curled up against bottom and the left thumb resting against the side. To palm, grip the corner of the under cards with the left little finger at first joint. (See Fig. 41.) Then swing finger end of upper portion of deck out against left thumb, keeping right thumb stationary as a pivot, until the finger ends of the two packets are just past each other, straightening out the left first finger at the same time. (See Fig. 42.)
Then release thumb end of lower packet, letting it down into left palm, or press thumb end of both packets into left palm, releasing under packet, and slide deck out of left hand and drop it on the table to be cut, turning over left hand with the palmed cards at the same moment.
The whole process is as quick as a flash, and quite imperceptible. The drawback is the slightly unnatural action of bringing the left fingers to the end of the deck. They should be kept at the side in squaring up after the shuffle, then at the last instant slipped to the end, and without a moment’s hesitation the palm is made.
To replace the bottom palm, pick up the deck by the ends with the right hand, and as it is placed in the left slide the left second finger from the end of the palmed cards to the side, curl the left first finger up underneath (See Fig. 43), and as the palmed cards are slipped into position bring the left thumb against one side and the left second finger to the other, which materially aid in the rotary movement of the under packet.
It is more difficult to replace than to palm, but the action is not so liable to attract attention, as, if the palm is not suspected, any awkwardness at replacing may be covered by squaring up the cut. But replacing may be performed just as perfectly as palming, and to become proficient in either requires some practice. When the positions and process are thoroughly understood the main difficulties are overcome.
- Bottom Palm-When Cards Are Riffled
WHEN the cards are riffled–that is, shuffled on the table–it is impossible to make a palm in a perfectly natural manner, as there is no reason for taking the deck up into the hands before the cut. The action would appear awkward, or at least unnecessary and a waste of time. But when the company is not too fast the following plan may be used with success.
After the riffle seize the deck at sides, near ends, between second finger and thumb of each hand. Raise the left-hand end until the bottom card faces the left palm, and give the deck a gentle tap on its end on the table. (See Fig. 44.) Then release the right hand and tilt the deck outward, so that the right second finger and thumb can grasp the ends near the top corners. Now release the left fingers, retaining position of left thumb, and tap the table again with the side of deck, at the same time bringing left second and third fingers to end of deck and curling left first and little fingers against the bottom, the left third finger touching the table. (See Fig. 45.) This brings the hands into much the same position as the Second Method, next….
- Bottom Palm-When Cards Are Riffled -Second Method
TO PALM, grip the bottom cards with the left third finger at first joint, and press firmly against right thumb; raise whole deck slightly, swinging finger end of top portion against left thumb, keeping right thumb stationary as a pivot, until the finger ends of both packets are past each other, and straightening out left first and little fingers. (See Fig. 46.) Then press right thumb with ends of both packets down into left palm, releasing under packet, and slide the deck out of left hand to be cut, turning over the left with the palmed ends at the same time.
After the deck is on its side the movements are perfectly natural in appearance, and the action of tapping the edges on the table to square up is common enough to pass in most any company. But tipping the deck may give an opportunity to note the bottom card, and the action will more likely cause a suspicion of that design than of palming. However, the tilting and tapping may be accomplished without haste and in a manner plainly evident that no one can possibly get a glimpse. The left hand should completely cover the bottom card, and the deck so handled that at no time does it face either the dealer or the players.
The actual palming can be done in a flash, and as we have said, the only objections are the necessary manoeuvres to obtain the position in a natural and easy manner.
The top palm can be made with the right hand in much the same manner, by reversing the positions. In which case the right hand seizes the deck by the sides after the palm is made. But there is little occasion for top palming in any game. In the second part of this book will be found, under the caption "Changes," several methods of palming which are lightning-like in rapidity but are more applicable to card conjuring than card playing.