{"id":1175,"date":"2018-12-28T02:42:33","date_gmt":"2018-12-28T02:42:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/robertjwallace.com\/\/\/?p=1175"},"modified":"2019-05-06T02:06:05","modified_gmt":"2019-05-06T02:06:05","slug":"faro-shuffle-tutorial","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/robertjwallace.com\/es\/faro-shuffle-tutorial\/","title":{"rendered":"Tutorial de Faro Shuffle"},"content":{"rendered":"

El barajado Faro es una t\u00e9cnica de barajado que permite que dos paquetes de cartas se intercalen perfectamente. Es decir, solo se suelta una carta de cada paquete a la vez, altern\u00e1ndose con una carta del otro paquete. Es una t\u00e9cnica semiautom\u00e1tica, lo que significa que, al ejecutarse correctamente, las cartas se entrelazan sin esfuerzo por parte del barajador. Sin embargo, es una t\u00e9cnica que se debe dominar, y factores como el estado de las cartas, el agarre de los paquetes, la presi\u00f3n y los \u00e1ngulos tambi\u00e9n influyen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

The shuffle is also\nknown as a weave shuffle (British) and as a dovetail shuffle. In\nAmerica it is called a Faro shuffle because of its usage by Faro\ndealers. Faro was a popular gambling game in America during the\n1800s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are several\ndifferent ways of performing the shuffle. The weave of the cards can\nbe started from the bottom of the deck, or from the top. In\naddition, with both types of weaving, the top card of the deck can\nremain the top card, called an out shuffle, or the top card can\nbecome the second card down after the shuffle, called an in shuffle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Top Weave Out Shuffle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Bottom Weave In Shuffle<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

One of the earliest\ndetailed descriptions of the shuffle was in 1940 with the publication\nof \u201cExpert Card Technique\u201d by Hugard and Braue. Ed Marlo\npublished extensively on the shuffle in the late 1950s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

These are the\ntechniques and tips I use to perform and practice the shuffle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

First you should practice with a deck in good to excellent condition, especially as you are learning. You should practice doing perfect shuffles, which are where the deck is divided exactly in half with 26 cards in each packet. I recommend putting the deck in new deck order and practicing out shuffles. The reason for this is that it can give you known cards to cut to to split the deck exactly in half.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A key goal of your practice is learning to cut the deck (or part of a deck) exactly in half. With the deck in new deck order you can check where you split the deck. Holding the deck in both hands use your right thumb to split the deck apart. Look and compare the ends of the cards and see if they have the same number of cards. Now look at the face card of where you cut. If you cut at 26 the face card should be the King of Clubs. If it isn\u2019t the King of Clubs close and square the deck and try again.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the key features of the Out Shuffle is that eight of them will return the deck into the original order, in this example back to new deck order. (You can check this out with my faro simulator<\/a>.) So there will be eight different key cards you can use to check your cuts. For the first shuffle the cut is at the King of Clubs. For the second shuffle the key is the Ace of Diamonds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\t\n\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t\n\t
Shuffle Number<\/th>Key card to cut to<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n
First Shuffle<\/td>King of Clubs<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Second Shuffle<\/td>Ace of Diamonds<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Third Shuffle<\/td>Seven of Clubs<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Fourth Shuffle<\/td>Four of Diamonds<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Fifth Shuffle<\/td>Nine of Spades<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Sixth Shuffle<\/td>Five of Spades<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Seventh Shuffle<\/td>Three of Spades<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Eighth Shuffle<\/td>Two of Spades<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n

I recommend that when you first start learning that you don\u2019t complete shuffles that haven\u2019t weaved correctly. Un-weave them, but the deck back together and try again. I will demonstrate this is the video clips below.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are some basic\ntechniques that are common whether your are doing a top down weave, a\nbottom up weave, an in shuffle or an out shuffle. As for the top\ndown versus bottom up techniques I find that some people find one way\nto be easier or more natural for them than the other. I recommend\npracticing both. Darwin Ortiz does a top down Faro, his reasoning\nbeing that there are tricks and effects that don\u2019t need a full deck\nweave. I typically do a bottom up Faro because visually it looks\nmore like a normal shuffle. I will demonstrate both.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In addition to the above differences I have also found that people handle the two packets differently. I hold the deck in my hands and cut of the top half with my right hand and move it back towards my body. Some performers move the top half forward away from their body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I have found a lot\nof mathematical articles describing the math behind the Faro shuffle.\n To my surprise I have not found anything describing the physics of\nthe shuffle. The shuffle basically involves butting the two halves\ntogether and applying pressure to get them to spring together\nperfectly interleaving. Factors that affect this interleave are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

  • \nThe\n\tconditions of the cards\n\t<\/li>
  • \nThe grip on\n\tthe cards and keeping the cards square to each other\n\t<\/li>
  • \nThe surface\n\tarea of the cards touching as they weave together\n\t<\/li>
  • \nThe pressure\n\tbeing applied pushing the two packs towards each other and sometimes\n\tthe release of the pressure on the two packs\n<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n

    The conditions of the cards<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    I have done perfect Faros with ratty old decks but it isn\u2019t fun. A new deck, or a deck just broken in is the best. It should be clean and have no crimped cards or bent corners.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    The grip on the cards<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    The grip on the cards is very important. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    The deck is held square between your right and left hands. The left hand is slightly palm up and the deck is held between the left thumb and middle fingers near the outer end. The left first finger is pressed at the end of the deck keeping it square. The right thumb and middle fingers hold the inner end of the deck with the right first finger pressing down slightly on the backs of the cards. The goal here is to keep the deck as square as possible and you cut it into two packets between the 26th and 27th cards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    While maintaining pressure with your grip use your right thumb to split the deck in half. At this point look at the two halves to see if they are equal. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    Then slide the top half back and line up the two halves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

    By butting the two halves together you can check to see if they both have the same number of cards. If they don’t, put the top half back, re-square the deck and cut again. Note that the hands are still tightly gripping their halves and that the left first finger is keeping its half square.
    <\/p>\n\n\n\n

    You don’t have to butt the halves together, you can go directly into the shuffle, but I find butting the halves together helps square them and gives a good check for having cut the deck exactly in half. I also extend my left little finger down to the point where the two halve will meet and use the tip as a ledge to rest the ends on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    \"\"
    Butting the cards together<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \"\"
    Note my little finger acting as a ledge<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \n